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The fries, seasoned with togarashi and sprinkled with cotija cheese, are sturdy and crisp.
I can see why — it’s a handsome dish with meaty cylinders of grilled octopus paired with crisped pieces of potato in a garlicky mayo.
Kinzie St., 312-940-9900, barriochicago.com— Bill Daley Beet hummus at Beatnik kicks off the meal with sparks of citrus zest and dusky notes of clove, offset by the crunch of fried chickpeas and the salty tang of blue cheese.
(Annie Grossinger / Chicago Tribune)Beatnik is a study in texture.
It's a feast of salt, heat and creaminess, which sums up drunk food just about perfectly. The handsome wood bar takes up nearly half the space, while all the tables are huddled in one corner.
Sure, you get a view of the tiny kitchen, but the energy resides up front by the booze. Even though it sports two patties made with dry-aged beef, my burger came out oddly, um, dry.
I know I was wondering what to expect from this Near North restaurant helmed by Katsuji Tanabe of “Top Chef” fame.
As the Tribune reported around the time Barrio opened last summer, look for “Mexican-ish” here.Each morsel is also soaked in a spicy red tomato and chile broth, making them so soft you can easily spread them on the crackers served on the side.While I'd never trade these for one of the gorgeously fragrant tamales served at places like Bombon Cafe (138 S.Barrio is a handsome restaurant sporting 200 seats, with options ranging from communal-length tables to booths framed with curtains.A curving window wall in the bar takes in the action at the corner of Kinzie and Clark streets — a perfect perch for people watching during the holiday season.65 W.The cornbread arrives in a cast-iron pan, is firm enough to slice neatly and eat in-hand, yet sports a texture so delightfully loose and crumbly that you may worry — needlessly — that it will fall apart.